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Panerai's heritage is deeply rooted in Florence since 1860, as the first workshop. Over 160 years ago, it evolved into a trusted partner of the Royal Italian Navy, supplying precision instruments. This established a legacy of innovation, Italian design, and military precision. Panerai's story emphasizes dedication to performance and functionality, originating in Tuscany and still defining the brand. The "Depths of Time" exhibition uniquely captures these core values and history.
This family portrait introduces the key figures in our story: Guido with his wife Guglielmina, and their children Giuseppe and Maria.
Orologeria Svizzera employed trusted watchmakers who assembled and repaired all watches on the first floor before they were sold.
Thanks to the technical skills developed through the family’s watchmaking operations, Panerai secured the contract to produce watches for the Italian Navy’s frogmen.
Panerai’s history is defined by a relentless pursuit of luminosity — first for military instruments with its collaboration with the Marina Militare that began in the 1910s, and later for watches. For the first time, Radiomir and Luminor’s story comes to light —developed for the Italian Navy’s sighting devices and presented through historical and archival objects, marking the start of a luminous journey.
Dated 1960, this letter verifies the 50 years of collaboration with the Italian Navy. Panerai supplied tools since the 1910s, continuously evolving to meet different needs.
Early 20th-century aiming tools, enhanced with Panerai’s Radiomir paste for night visibility. Adopted not just by the Italian, but also French, British, and American forces.
The French patent marks the first use of “Radiomir,” the luminous paste invented by Panerai. Made with radium, it enabled visibility in total darkness for high precision tools.
The Bakalite dial, exposed to heat and light, caused the discs to expand, jamming the hands. So then, Panerai moved toward more reliable solutions through technical evolution.
Luminor, a safer tritium-based compound, was developed on the Navy’s request in 1940s. From the 1960s, it replaced radium; by 1971, all radioactivity was eliminated.
For Panerai, the development of specialized instruments and watches for extreme underwater conditions has been pivotal. These military tools, designed for extreme precision and durability, played a crucial role in shaping the brand's legacy. From the early days of innovative underwater equipment to the creation of timepieces, Panerai's commitment to advancement defines its heritage and reputation.
Authentic wooden box for Panerai diver's watches with Radiomir paste, sent to the Navy, including instructions.
Ref.3646 diver’s watch with an anonymous sandwich dial, illuminated using Radiomir, a self-luminous paste that ensured constant visibility in total darkness.
An underwater navigation tool with luminous markings. It requires the diver to hold their arm horizontally to check their orientation.
Part of the diver’s kit since the 1960s, this gauge measured underwater depth. Panerai produced several models with depth ranges spanning from 7 to 50 meters.
An underwater flashlight using a cold light Elux Panerai panel to emit signals undetectable by infrared. Powered by a dry battery, it illuminated nearby areas without heat.
Among Giuseppe Panerai’s most successful inventions is the Elux technology: used from the 1960s in flashlights, indicators, electric signal devices, and precision instruments.
Water resistance is fundamental to Panerai's identity. The brand developed specialized, precise, and durable military instruments for demanding underwater conditions, crucial in shaping its legacy. This pursuit led to the patented Crown Protecting Bridge in 1956, designed to seal the crown and prevent water infiltration. Today, this legacy endures with advanced case construction, enhanced water resistance, and distinctive design, making the Luminor an icon.
Installed and patented for GPF 2/56, this bridge locks the crown to enhance water resistance for underwater missions: a hallmark of Panerai’s design.
Panerai’s first fully designed watch featured the 8 Days Angelus SF 240 movement, bidirectional rotating bezel and crown protecting bridge, which debuted for the first time.
Tested to 1070m, this prototype was Panerai’s first automatic watch and among the first in grade 5 titanium. Considered outdated by the Navy, it never entered production.
These models debuted escape valves to rebalance helium gas that forms inside the case—developed by the Laboratorio di Idee to withstand extreme high pressures.
This historical Panerai’s machine tested water resistance and pressure integrity for wrist instruments such as watches, depth gauges and compasses.
The evolution of Panerai’s case is shaped by history itself.
The brand has always focused on a single, distinctive case design - refined over time to meet the demanding needs of military use.
This singular continuity reflects Panerai’s commitment to purpose-driven innovation and timeless identity.
A classic example of a sandwich dial paired with a 47mm cushion-shaped case, featuring a conical screw-down crown, and wire lugs with a hand-stitched leather strap.
This model, without the crown protecting bridge, features a Cortébert 618 calibre and a through-screw system, a key innovation enhancing strap resistance and replacement.
Watch created for the Egyptian Navy, featuring a 60mm case and the crown protecting bridge designed specifically for this model.
A breakdown of the various construction stages of the Luminor 44mm case in AISI 316L steel—then the highest quality standard in watchmaking.
Form follows function in every Panerai watch. Each detail has a purpose with design shaped by rigorous technical development. Early pieces used the Cortèbert 618 calibre. In the mid-1950s, the Angelus SF 240 with an 8 Days power reserve was introduced—first in the Egyptian diver watch, then in 47 mm models—allowing weekly winding and less wear.
Signature sandwich structure featuring two superimposed plates: an upper one with cut-out numerals and hour markers, and a lower base dial with luminous material, ensuring optimal legibility even in low-light conditions.
First used in the 1956 GPF 2/56, the Angelus SF 240 movement enabled weekly winding, minimizing maintenance and tool wear.
This Angelus travel alarm clock, 8 Days power reserve, was specially commissioned for Orologeria Svizzera in the 1940s. The collaboration highlights the strong relationship between Angelus and the Panerai family, reflecting the close ties between manufacturers and specialized watch distributors of the period.
A rare ref. 3646 cushion-shaped case with fixed lugs, early Luminor dial, Angelus SF 240 movement, 8 Days power reserve, small seconds at 9 o’clock, and four-line print layout.
Powered by the first in-house long power reserve movement, this timepiece reflects Panerai’s focus on functionality, legibility, and technical innovation rooted in its naval heritage.
First in-house movement, handwound, 8 Days power reserve. It takes its name from the year in which Officine Panerai inaugurated its first manufacture in Neuchâtel.
On 10th September 1993, Panerai emerged from the depths. Once reserved for the Italian Navy, its watches became available to the public. To mark this momentous date, Panerai unveiled a new celebratory edition on the very anniversary that marked the brand’s transition: the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218, a tribute to the iconic 5218-202/A.
The 1992 issue featuring an important article on Panerai’s historic military timepieces. This renewed attention ultimately confirmed the decision for Panerai to resume watchmaking, no longer exclusively for military supply, but for civilian clients as well, marking a pivotal transition in its modern history.
Sent to Mrs. Maria Teresa Panerai, widow of Giuseppe Panerai, this invitation to the 1993 launch reflects the continued bond between Officine Panerai and the Panerai family.
Folder containing the image of Italian navy cruiser Durand de la Penne in the cover, distributed to guests attending the event.
Second series, produced in 1994, of the reference 5218-202/A developed for the Italian Navy, without classified military restrictions.
In 1998 Panerai entered a pivotal phase of its history with its international launch. Rooted in military diving heritage and guided by its Florentine origins, the brand brought its distinctive identity onto the global stage, where tradition and performance continued to evolve hand in hand. Panerai played a pioneering role in shaping the trend toward bold, larger tool watches, reinforcing a powerful and instantly recognizable design. This momentum paved the way for the Luminor to emerge as a true icon in the global watch world, firmly establishing Panerai’s place in contemporary watchmaking.
One of the earliest Officine Panerai advertisements featured the famous slogan: “It was a military secret. Discovering it is for the few.”
The first references of Panerai’s contemporary production remain faithful to the brand’s heritage: a revival of the historical watches, featuring the 44mm case used between 1993 and 1997.
PAM0036 was one of the first Panerai watches made in titanium after the Millemetri prototype. Among the brand’s earliest Special Editions, this toolwatch marks the beginning of a strategy that later became a defining element of the Maison.
